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- HEALTH, Page 53Say It Ain't So, Oleo!
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- Even margarine may be bad for the heart
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- It was one of the simplest pieces of advice a doctor could
- give: to reduce the risk of heart disease, hold the butter and
- spread margarine instead. And over the past two decades,
- millions of people have made the switch, believing they were
- replacing cholesterol-raising saturated fats with
- cholesterol-lowering unsaturated fats.
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- The issue may not be that simple. A study by two Dutch
- scientists reported in last week's New England Journal of
- Medicine found that one of the ingredients in stick margarine
- actually increases the risk of heart disease. At fault are the
- so-called trans-monounsaturated fatty acids used as hardeners
- in margarines, shortenings and commercial frying fats. The new
- research indicates that this kind of fatty acid, like the
- saturated fats found in butter, can raise the level of LDL, the
- type of cholesterol known to clog arteries.
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- No, it is not time to switch back to butter, says Dr. Scott
- Grundy, a University of Texas expert on cholesterol who wrote
- the journal's accompanying editorial. Butter, cheese and whole
- milk are still more damaging to blood cholesterol levels than
- any margarine, and all should be eaten in moderation. The real
- message, says Grundy, is that manufacturers have to find a
- better way to make their butter substitutes. Perhaps the
- easiest solution would be to replace the trans fatty acids with
- stearic acid, which is also a solid at room temperature but has
- not been shown to raise cholesterol levels in the blood.
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- The problem with stearic acid is that it is technically a
- saturated fat. And it would have to be classified as such on
- margarine labels that give a breakdown of the different kinds
- of fats in the product. That would confuse people conditioned
- to think that saturated fats are uniformly bad and unsaturated
- fats always good. Grundy believes it may be time to rethink the
- way labels are worded. His suggestion: identify which
- ingredients are cholesterol-raising. That may be the only way
- for consumers to know if a particular margarine contains the
- fats that are easiest on the heart.
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